From The Owner

Week 9: Power

Over two months of training is behind me now and actual work on Darkness At Noon is just about on the horizon. This last week of power training was a bit interrupted because of my annual trip to Salt Lake City for the Outdoor Retailer trade show. Even with the midweek work vacation I still managed to get a couple of strong workouts in. I'm really seeing the the pieces come together now during the long bouldering sessions in the gym. I'm eager to see it all connect over the next 3 weeks of power endurance but at the same time, the butterflies set in when I think about getting out to smith to actually start work on the project. 

Sunday: Last day of Campus Training

Warmup: 20 minutes of traversing on the wall. Rest for 15 minutes

Warmup Boulder Ladder:  V0 x4, V1 x4, V2 x4, V3 x2, V4 x2 (trying to select different types of problems on different types of terrain for a good mix). Rest for 10-15 minutes. 

Campus Training: Four sets of matching ladders (2 on the large rungs, 2 on the medium rungs) in which you start matched, then lead with the same hand and match the other hand for a total of 4 rungs matching once again at the top. Alternate the leading hand each set. Next was four sets of basic ladders (2 on the large rungs, 2 on the medium rungs) in which you start matched and go up one rung per hand for 5 rungs and match at the top. 

Monday: Opposing exercises! This one had me turning a slightly greenish color due to the Airdyne torture. 

Airdyne- 25 sec at 85+ rpm, 1 min rest x6 (try not to puke). Kettlebell swings 70lbs x5; Single leg deadlift w/ 55lb kettlebell x10 (5 each side); Plyometric pushups x10; Cleans with 35lb kettlebell x20 (10 each side); 2 rounds total on all the lifts. 

Meghan Austin was my apparel advisor this year at OR. 

Meghan Austin was my apparel advisor this year at OR. 

Tuesday-Friday: Team SW/AG boarded a flight to SLC to look at all the awesome new stuff that is going to be available for next year. AntiGravity Equipment has been growing slowly but surely and with many key products already in the shop, this year the focus was on the most innovative products and lots of really nice technical clothing. Though there was next to 0 climbing done during the week, Power Training switched from the physical to the ability to power through like a proper adult after a few days of partying with all our friends in the outdoor industry.

Saturday: I was back at AntiGravity Equipment in time to open the shop after landing in PDX early in the morning. With some makeup work to do, after sorting out some business stuff I went right into a Limit Bouldering workout followed by a core workout and an opposing exercises workout. 

Warmup: 20 minutes of traversing on the wall. Rest for 15 minutes

Warmup Boulder Ladder:  V0 x4, V1 x4, V2 x4, V3 x2, V4 x2 (trying to select different types of problems on different types of terrain for a good mix). Rest for 10-15 minutes. 

Limit Bouldering: After a 15 minute break I picked two problems that would normally be above flash level. I sent the first problem in two tries which really showed me the training was paying off. At Stoneworks they use a color system instead of the V scale for boulder problems and it's pretty rare that I can send an orange problem let alone complete one in two tries. Next I headed to the highball area for another dynamic orange problem. This one was not as difficult technically but required some serious commitment to a final dynamic move at the top of the 18ft wall. After 4 tries, I wasn't able to finish the problem but did notice a better command of all the holds on the problem which pointed to another benefit from the training. 

Core: Parallettes- Passthrough's x10, L sits x5, L sit and hold for 30 sec; From the hangboard- Hanging Knee Tucks x15; Mountain climbers x50; From the hangboard- Windshield wipers x10 (5 each side); Repeat! 

Opposing Exercises: Turkish Getups with shoulder presses x2 (one each side); Offset Plyometric pushups x20 (10 each side); Power Stepups hugging 33lb plate x20 (10 each side); Deadlift using 70lb kettlebell x10; Seesaw Row using 25lb dumbbells x20; 2 rounds. On the second round I couldn't do the Plyometric Pushups so I just did them offset on the ground. 

And that wraps up 3 weeks of Power Training. The next few weeks will be spent on the computer filling out endless spreadsheets with all the new climbing gadgets I want to bring into AntiGravity Equipment and on the last phase training before working out some sort of schedule to try and redpoint my first 13 at Smith. Be sure to check back for more training updates next week!