From The Owner

Week 6: Strength

Applying some of that new finger strength out at Lost Rocks

Applying some of that new finger strength out at Lost Rocks

This week I finished up the strength phase and about the hit the official halfway mark as I move into the first week of power. 

Last week I had a bit of a pity party after kind of a rough week. I realized that I had a ton on my plate and it was affecting my mood which in turn affected how I was feeling about training at the moment. I had a really good training day over the weekend with my teammates though and that helped me to realize that I can lean on them for a little motivation when the going gets tough so I can keep the big picture in site and stay inspired as well. 

It's not always possible or easy to be a self-motivator so I'm lucky to have Team SW/AG around for those occasional pick-me-ups. Instant results don't often have a place in training and it can be hard to see gains especially if all you've been doing for a while is training and not yet applying it to any routes. Or worse, you can see some results and get tempted to scrap the rest of the season in order to run out and send a bunch of mini projects instead of committing to the long term goals that were set at the beginning.

Saturday: Due to rain the previous days I headed over to PG for a change of scenery and had a killer workout with Team SW/AG. Because the grades are on the courteous side, I bumped up the endurance grade to 11a. I climbed about 8 pitches or so feeling extremely satisfied with the level of endurance through the entire workout. At the end, Meghan, Missy, and myself all got together for a core workout led by Cameron, the master of pain himself.  

Core: Hollow Hold 30 sec to 30 sec of V Ups x 2; 20 Side V Ups into side plank for 30 sec both sides; Using the Parallettes: Pass Throughs x 10, L Sit Lifts x 5, L Sit hold for 30 sec total time under tension. 

After that whole workout, I rushed up to Beaverton to open up AntiGravity Equipment. It was still early enough in the day that business hadn't quite picked up so I took advantage and got my hangboard workout in while still warm from the earlier gym session. It was time to go up in resistance today too. I was in such a great mood from my earlier session I couldn't wait to crush the board! Much to my amusement, my attitude helped me through one of my best workouts yet. 

Hangboard workout #6: Jugs with Body Weight; Index Middle Ring +7.5 lbs; Medium Edge +7.5 lbs; Medium Pinch +7.5 lbs; Middle, Ring -35 lbs; Large Edge +7.5 lbs; Wide Pinch +7.5 lbs; Middle Ring Pinkie -35 lbs.        

Sunday: Opposing exercises. Hindu Pushups x 10; Cossack Squats x 20 (10 each side); Chair Dips x 10 with 10 lb weight added; Curl to Shoulder Press x 10; Hamstring Bridges x 10; Repeat 3 times. 

Monday: Rest day! 

Tuesday: Final hangboard workout. I also went up in resistance for yet another personal best! I started with 20 minutes of endurance to warm up then moved on to the board. 

Hangboard workout #7: Jugs with Body Weight; Index Middle Ring +10 lbs; Medium Edge +10 lbs; Medium Pinch +10 lbs; Middle, Ring -32.5 lbs; Large Edge +10 lbs; Wide Pinch +10 lbs; Middle Ring Pinkie -32.5.        

Supplemental Workout: After another great hangboard session I finished up with an opposing exercise routine: Walking Lunge into a Single Leg Deadlift x 10 each leg; 3 sets of single arm: Shoulder press x 10, Lateral Raise x 10, Front Raise x 10, Reverse Fly x 10; 20 Push Up to Elbow Knee Touches x 2; Single Leg Squats x 20 (10 each side). 

Wednesday: Core workouts by Cameron again (the lift workouts are also designed by Cameron). Standing Band presses x 80 (40 each side); Around the worlds with 25 lb Plate (10 each side); Active Side Plank x 20; Hollow Rockers x 30; Rinse and repeat. 

And that wraps up strength training. Later this week I move on to POWAH!! I'm definitely looking forward to this next phase because it looks like it involves a lot more climbing although the length and intensity of the sessions are intimidating. It will also be my first time using a campus board so we'll have to see how that goes. 

I have to give a big shout out to Meghan, Cameron, and Missy for keeping me motivated this last week. There are so many external factors that can make or break a training day which can quickly spiral downwards if you don't have the support. Many of my other teammates are also to thank for all the times they drop by AntiGravity Equipment and comment on the blog or want to join in on the workouts. When together, Team SW/AG is like a big ball of motivation. 

Check back next week for the first week of Power Training for 5.13. Thanks for reading and supporting a local climbing shop.