Week 12: Power Endurance

Wow, I can't believe 3 months already went by and now it's finally time to see what 12 weeks of training can do for a regular dude out at Smith Rock. Power endurance training continued this last week and I was fortunate to be able to make it outside for another 2 amazing days of cragging. 

We'll get to the workouts soon enough but as I wrap up the training blog posts this week I want to take a moment to thank my SW/AG friends for all the help and support that we've all given each other throughout the last 3 months. If you've been following the blogs week by week you'll have read about some contributions to the training as time went on. These contributions came as a result of my friends also being interested in training and wanting to contribute some help along the way. 

Missy Apple started training with us because she wanted to work on developing her psychological game as well as her physical abilities on roped routes. At the beginning of the training we spent a lot of time finding and getting to the root of all her fears and we all pitched in to keep her motivated through her psychological cruxes. Despite tremendous pressures to overcome Missy has shown commitment and determination to overcome her fears and is always willing to get outside with us no matter how early the starts or how many round trips we make. Missy is also one of the most supportive in the group and during the 12 weeks of training she would constantly remind us of our progress if we were feeling down or would go as far as to slug us in the arm if we were being irrationally hard on ourselves. Brightening up even the most boring of endurance days, her sense of humor and selfless attitude towards her climbing partners was a tremendous help to the team. 

Meghan Austin's ability to commit to a regimented training program first time out was amazing. Training with your significant other can be a daunting task but Meghan's determination to succeed and desire to see the both of us progress to a new level made for the best training partner you could ask for. Already being a pretty fit woman, once Meghan hit her stride in the strength phase it was incredible to see her progress. The first time she caught a dyno in one of the highball areas of the gym we put it on our social media sites and got over 1000 views. I knew then that her determination was going to make her unstoppable through the rest of the training. Meghan Austin shared a very valuable contribution to my training in particular when it came to supplemental exercises and nutrition. I generally dislike almost any exercise that isn't climbing but whenever I didn't want to do any of the core workouts or lifts, she would be there to push me to finish at least the entire first rounds and later in the training to finish the entire workouts; Even on hot days when our clothes were sticking to our skin and we didn't want to move an eyelash. Later, Meghan kept us both healthy with easy to cook recipes full of nutritious ingredients and lots of flavor. 

Last on our team is my friend Cameron Apple. Though I have a love/hate relationship with his workout designs, I'm convinced that his torture creations went a long way towards keeping us injury free and gave us incredible functional strength that easily applied itself during the different phases of our training. Starting out cold turkey 12 weeks ago, I could barely complete a single round of his routines but even during this early stage I knew that if I kept up with them the rewards would be worth it. Thanks to his routines the team saved a lot of time and energy on what now seems like pointless traditional exercises. Seemingly endless sequences of unconventional core and opposing muscle exercises using mostly bodyweight and kettlebells kept the overuse injuries at bay, kept our bodies in a constant state of adaptation, and made us stronger on and off the rock for sure. Like Meghan and Missy, his supportive attitude and commitment to the training made him an invaluable part of the team especially when it came to getting outside. 

 So that's the team for this training cycle. Just about a 3rd of the way on their first cycle are our friends Steven and Veronica. Once they finish up towards the end of this year we'll all be back at it again to be in even better shape for Spring climbing with all of Team SW/AG. Below is the final workout in the Power Endurance phase. Starting this weekend we will all be working on our respective end goals. I'm excited to see what happens as I start work on Darkness At Noon. 

Monday: Rest Day and skin care. 

Tuesday: Core Workout. Using the Parallettes- Pass through's x10; L Sit Lifts x5; L Sit Hold for 30 sec; Hangboard- Toes to bar x10; 50 Mountain climbers; Hangboard- Hanging Negatives x10; Russian Twist x60. 2 rounds. 

Wednesday: Route Intervals. Warmed up with 4 routes on lead, each one progressively harder and practice falls at the anchors. Next was a boulder ladder consisting of V2 x4, V3 x3, V3 x2, V5 x2. 15 minutes rest. 

Next I picked a pumpy route with about 30 moves. I climbed the route once on lead and timed myself. I rested double the time it took me to climb it. I was able to complete 6 full laps on lead averaging about 1.5 minutes climbing and 3 minutes rest. 

Thursday: Core and Opposing exercises. Bike warmup for 2 min, steady pace. Single-arm Kettlebell fun (reps # is on each side)- Swings x10, Cleans x10, Overhead Press x10, Racked Squats x10, Rows x10, Windmills x5, High Pulls x10, Racked Lunges x5. Plank hands to elbows x1 min, 1 min rest. Repeat kettlebell circuit. 1 min Side Plank each side, 1 min rest. Repeat kettlebell circuit but cut reps to 5, 1 min rest. V Ups NO REST- Hold w/ hands at knees x30 sec, hands over head x30 sec, with hand pumps x30 sec, hands at knees while alternating knee tucks x30 sec.  Skin care for sure after this workout.

Friday: Rest Day

Saturday: Rest Day

Sunday: Laps at French's Dome. My warmup up consisted of 2 laps on Silver Streak. The previous weekend I had completed 3 full laps with no falls on lead on Crankenstein. This time I did only one lap on lead and moved up in difficulty on a route called Pump O Rama. I was able to complete 3 laps on lead without falls on this route and that's when I really started to feel like I might have a fighting chance once I started to work on the 13a. 

Final lap of the day on Pump O Rama 

Final lap of the day on Pump O Rama 

Monday: Laps at French's Dome. After a long warm up on several of the easier routes at French's I managed another 3 laps on Pump O Rama. This time I lead the route the first time. The second and third time I lapped it on top rope but I timed it and double the rest time to simulate indoor training. I was able to complete all 3 laps with no falls and shorter rests! 

Supplemental Training: This week Meghan and I got ingredients for delicious Veggie Tacos. We cooked up brussel sprouts, onions, peppers, zucchini, and mushrooms in a pan with a bunch of seasoning and in about 15 minutes we had cooked vegetable wrapped up in corn tortillas ready to eat. For a second dish, we baked some salmon and bought a large container of mixed leafy greens and packed salmon salads for lunches. 

Veggie Taco Mix 

Veggie Taco Mix 

And that wraps up my training for 5.13. Now the only thing left to do is go out and send that rig! I hope you guys had fun reading the blog posts and maybe even found some useful information that could help you with your goals. The blog posts have served as a kind of accountability log and I've enjoyed sharing the successes, aches and pains of the training life as I went along. For sure training for any kind of project requires a big shift in mentality and I owe a lot of inspiration to keep going to Meghan, Cameron, Missy, Steven and Veronica and of course the rest of Team SW/AG who in one way or another always shows support. As always, thanks for reading and drop by AntiGravity Equipment if you get a chance to say hi. 


Juan Rodriguez