Week 10: Power Endurance

Part of the final phase of training involves a little more attention to diet. 

Part of the final phase of training involves a little more attention to diet. 

Finally, my last and favorite training phase... Power Endurance! With only 3 weeks left to go before work on the actual project starts, it's time to put all the previous phases together into what hopefully becomes smooth-yet-crushing technique. As the weeks have gone by I've definitely begun to see many improvements in the gym that have me feeling super confident when it comes to plastic. Still, I get these bits of nervous tension when I wonder if the training will respond the same way outside.

The drawback to training for the majority of time indoors is that I haven't had a ton of opportunity to apply it on real rock. There's a part of me that wants the hardest of routes to feel like 5.9's but the prudent part of me knows how unrealistic that fantasy is. Getting better through training doesn't make harder routes easier (in the sense of the word). It just makes you better at managing your most difficult terrain. I just get antsy thinking that I'll soon be getting on that dream line and maybe it won't feel easy or manageable. Still, I know I've invested a lot of time and effort into preparing and it would be a waste of my efforts if I didn't push past my comfort zone. As it gets closer to game day, my friend Matt Lapworth would say "fuertes a muerte" (strong to the death). 

The power endurance workouts for the next 3 weeks are designed to mimic climbing long sections of routes near your limit of endurance for a sustained period of time. By forcing yourself to adapt to the stress you will be increasing the length of time you can climb while your forearm pump increases. If designed right, the workouts are short, brutal, sprints of maximum effort for your little digits and forearms. My favorite! 

Monday: I started the workout with 15 minutes of endurance and 10 minutes of rest. Next was a Warmup Boulder Ladder consisting of V2 x4, V3 x3, V4 x2, V5 x2. Next I spent about 20 minutes working on a dynamic V6 mini-project followed by 15 minutes of rest. 

Power endurance: Linked bouldering circuit. At Stoneworks we have various hold specific circuits set about the gym that are perfect for power endurance training. I chose to work on a crimp circuit that also had a long crimpy boulder problem that ran along the same wall. I started on the on the boulder problem which traversed left. When I reached the end, I climbed back a few holds without coming off and climbed into the crimp circuit which traversed right. I set the timer at the start of the circuit and by the time I fell off some 32 moves later I was at about 2.5 minutes. I timed my rest for 5 minutes (double the time on the wall) and when the timer went off I repeated the set. I was able to complete 4 cycles slowly decreasing from 32 moves down to about 28 by the time I reached the 4th cycle. The decrease in volume was due to forearm fatigue increasing with each set. 

Tuesday: Core workouts from Cameron. Lateral Crawls down and back; Plank Touch Protocol forward and backwards; Side V Ups x40 (20 each side); Seated Compressions; V Up- hold hands at knees 30 sec, hold hands over head 30 sec, hand pumps at knees 30 sec, hold hands at knees while alternating knee tucks, 30 sec. Rest 15 sec between each hold. Repeat for 2 rounds total then shrivel up and cry. 

Wednesday: Repeat power endurance training.

I started the workout with 15 minutes of endurance and 10 minutes of rest. Next was a Warmup Boulder Ladder consisting of V2 x4, V3 x3, V4 x2, V5 x2. Next I spent about 20 minutes working on a dynamic V6 mini-project followed by 15 minutes of rest. 

Power endurance: I started on the on the boulder problem which traversed left. When I reached the end, I climbed back a few holds without coming off and climbed into the crimp circuit which traversed right. I set the timer at the start of the circuit and by the time I fell off some 32 moves later I was at about 2.5 minutes. I timed my rest for 5 minutes (double the time on the wall) and when the timer went off I repeated the set. 4 sets total. 

Thursday: Rest day! 

Friday: Core workouts mixed with opposing exercises from Cameron. Reptile crawls in one direction and inchworms back to the starting point x2. Kettlebells- Single arm swings x10; Mountain climbers x25; Clean-Squat-Press with kettlebells x10; Russian twist x60, Single led deadlift with kettlebell x10; V Ups x30; Power step ups x40. I was supposed to repeat two rounds of this workout but lately I had been getting quite a few dizzy spells throughout the week and I wasn't able complete a second round without feeling a little sick to my stomach so I cut it short. More on this later. 

Team SW/AG rappelling down Infinite Bliss

Team SW/AG rappelling down Infinite Bliss

Saturday: Climbing outside. For months now, some of us from Team SW/AG had been planning a trip to the Washington National Forest to attempt a 23 pitch sport route called Infinite Bliss on Mt. Garfield. Saturday was our day to try and send this rig. Due to route finding treachery and water shortage, we were only able to complete 11 pitches before making a very wise decision to retreat. Blog post on this to follow. 

Sunday: Rest Day. 

Additional training: Now that I am getting pretty close to finishing up with the training, diet and weight control have become a thing to keep an eye on. For this part of the training I asked for help from Meghan Austin, my girlfriend and main training partner. If you've seen Meghan around the gym or occasionally working at AntiGravity Equipment, you know she's a pretty fit lady. Why just the other day, a lady at the grocery store complimented her on her guns while we were shopping for recipes. 

Eating healthy isn't a chore for me but coming up with stuff to cook is. My days are so busy with running my shop, a second job, training and helping out with my teammates' training plus regular life stuff and unfortunately my diet suffers from proper nutrition the majority of the time. I asked Meghan to help me with two healthy recipes a week that I could cook in bulk over the next 5-6 weeks to help me keep a healthier diet and help me drop a few pounds. Coupled with a step up in the reps and exercises that Cameron helps out with I'll be down to fighting weight in no time. 

This week Meghan and I got together to cook up bulk recipe of quinoa, lentils, and veggies with chicken as well as a bulk recipe of tabouli. We were able to buy up enough groceries to feed the both of us for the week and we spent less than 50$ between the two of us.  

Thanks for following the training blog and for supporting AntiGravity Equipment your local westside climbing shop. Be sure to check back over the next two weeks as I finish up the training and start work on my project out at Smith Rock. 

 

Juan Rodriguez