Week 5: Strength

Another crazy week of training has come to an end. This one right on the heels of another outdoor trip, this time to Lost Rocks in Klamath, California. As I had mentioned in last week's post, it wasn't an ideal time to take a trip this early into the training. However, Lost Rocks and Squamish were already planned before the training started plus the fact that I really wanted to go because I put everyone up to it to begin with. 

Even so, I arranged the training in a way that I wouldn't have to miss more than one hangboard workout last week and this week so the damage wasn't too bad. The training however, is definitely not very fun at this point. In fact, I find myself questioning sometimes if 5.13 is even worth it considering the amount of sacrifice that has to happen in order see if I'm even strong enough to send. 

Though not as boring as endurance training, hangboarding is still pretty uninteresting to me. I hate watching the seconds crawl by as I hang from my fingertips in 10 second intervals only to watch the same seconds fly by in double time during the rest periods. It's mildly amusing to see the progress on paper but I'm chomping at the bit to get outside and climb whatever I want. Still, I started this thing and I intend to see it through but it's not without its psychological challenges. 

Saturday - Monday: Training came to a screeching halt as I caravanned with 26 other friends from Team SW/AG and headed to the california coast for 3 days of bouldering, swimming, and flat out fun! I climbed whatever I wanted (which wasn't much), drank too much good beer, and laughed till I thought I might pass out all in the company of the best crew ever.

Bouldering at it's finest.... Click  HERE  for climbing photos from the trip

Bouldering at it's finest.... Click HERE for climbing photos from the trip

Tuesday: Tired, heavy, and sunburnt, I woke up and hit the ground running to catch up on life on hold. Just because I go on vacation doesn't mean AntiGravity Equipment does. Taking 3 days off is like taking a week off when it comes to shop stuff. I was glad to have a full rest day to catch up on some tasks before returning back to training.

Wednesday: Back to hangboarding. I meant to get my workout in at about midday but I was still slammed with catchup work and the shop was busy with people shopping for some of the new gear that had arrived in the previous two weeks. Late into the day, I started with 20 minutes of endurance. After a break it was time to jump on the hangboard. Since I'd progressed twice in a row with resistance I kept the workout the exact same as the last time to make sure I really mastered the new level. 

Hangboard workout #5: Jugs with Body WeightIndex Middle Ring +5 lbs; Medium Edge +5 lbs; Wide Pinch +5 lbs; Middle Ring -37.5 lbs; Large Edge +5 lbs; Medium Pinch +5 lbs; Middle Ring Pinky -37.5 lbs. 

Thursday: I was supposed to do opposing muscle exercises on Wednesday but I ran out of time so I pushed them to this day and added them to the core routine that was on the schedule. Opposing exercises were as follow: Squats followed by a Burpees in a pyramid - first 1, then 2, then 3, then 4, then 5; Reptile Crawl back and forth along the hallway upstairs (about 20 feet each way); Single Arm Chest Press- 4 sets, 10 reps per arm; Glute/Ham Bridge- 3 sets, 20 reps.

On to core: Plank Complex 20 each- hands, elbows, shoulders, toes; Turkish Getup (to standing) followed by 5 windmills, then reverse the Turkish Getup- 5 sets each side; Another Plank Complex 20 each- hands, elbows, shoulders, toes and right into 50 mountain climbers. After 15 minutes of whining I picked myself and my pride up off the floor and went back to work. 

Friday: Rest day and time to catch up on posts. Not the best training week but there were two solids days of effort. As for the rest of the week? All the fun I had with my friends was worth the break in discipline for 3 days. Back to the straight and narrow for now though. 

Supplemental training: Last week I had mentioned trying to be more conscientious about adding some healthy stretches into my workout. Yeah, I pretty much did none of that this week so rather than add a new thing to work on, I'm going to try and force myself to start stretching. On the plus side, I've been doing good on the water intake and that's something I had a hell of a time with in the past too so maybe there's hope. 

Hangboarding has also done a number on my fingers by creating nasty calluses and little tiny flappers. Every few days or so I take a nail file to my calluses and sand them down and trim any little flappers back to make sure I don't get any skin tears that could mess up my training. I've never paid much attention to the skin on my fingers before so it's definitely kind of a weird thing to sit there and file them down. 



Juan Rodriguez