Week 8: Power

Working on perfecting the campus technique in the gym. 

Working on perfecting the campus technique in the gym. 

The second week of power training is done and with one week left to go I'm starting to see some things come together. This week was much better than the first week of power training in the sense that I felt like I was back in touch with gym climbing. During the endurance phase the climbing was unrestricted because I didn't have to follow any tape during the long sets on the wall. Strength was more about time spent on the hangboard so there was even less climbing involved except to warm up. Getting back to the confines of taped boulder problems had me feeling a bit out of sorts with all the rules but I really feel like I hit a great stride this second week. 

On a few days in particular, I felt that familiar feeling of having everything flow really smoothly during bouts on boulder problems. It's that great feeling that you get when you feel like you have complete control of every hold you touch, nothing feels desperate, and all your movements feel precise. It's during those days that I feel like all the sacrifice is worth it and it kick starts my motivation to stay focused for the duration of the training. 

If you've been following the blog then you're no stranger to the creative workouts designed by my friend Cameron Apple. These have been especially key in the training process. Besides somewhat normal aches and pains I've been able to stay relatively pain free and definitely injury free throughout the process. These last two weeks he's introduced various exercises involving kettlebells and I have to say, they have been some of the most punishing but some of the most fun workouts so far. I also feel like I've seen a big improvement in my ability to withstand the core exercises. I can't always finish them without rests but for the most part I have enough in the tank to at least finish the workouts completely now. There's been noticeable improvement in my hip flexor strength which has been a major weak point for me and over all I feel pretty damn fit in addition to the climbing. 

Friday: REST DAY!! 

Saturday: Due to a quick trip to Las Vegas to see my family, I traded my outdoor bouldering day for Monday's campus workout since I wouldn't be able to do that while I was away. There was some opposing exercises to do that day too but due to a wedding reception at the gym, there wasn't enough time to do those. 

Warmup: 20 minutes of traversing on the wall. Rest for 15 minutes

Warmup Boulder Ladder:  V0 x4, V1 x4, V2 x4, V3 x2, V4 x2 (trying to select different types of problems on different types of terrain for a good mix). Rest for 10-15 minutes. 

Campus Training: Four sets of matching ladders (2 on the large rungs, 2 on the medium rungs) in which you start matched, then lead with the same hand and match the other hand for a total of 4 rungs matching once again at the top. Alternate the leading hand each set. Next was four sets of basic ladders (2 on the large rungs, 2 on the medium rungs) in which you start matched and go up one rung per hand for 5 rungs and match at the top. 

Although a little hard on the elbows, I've been feeling pretty well in control of these exercises. I don't think I'm quite ready to go down in width of the rungs but maybe next season. 

Sunday & Monday: REST DAYS! I headed down to Las Vegas to watch a concert with my mom at the Brooklyn Bowl. Whenever The Offspring come to town we always meet up to watch the show. We've been doing that together since I was 13. There's a cool origins story about that HERE

Integrating some high-ball bouldering in the Warmup Boulder Ladder routine 

Integrating some high-ball bouldering in the Warmup Boulder Ladder routine 

Tuesday: Supplemental exercises from Cameron.

Opposing Exercises:  Bike warmup 1 min. moderate pace. Single arm kettlebell exercises (5 each with each arm)-  Swings, Cleans-Presses, Clean-Squat-Presses, Bike 1 min. moderate pace. Repeat 3 times! 

I had core this day as well but I felt like I'd ran backwards through a cornfield so I pushed core to the next day. 

Wednesday: Core! Hollow Hold 30 sec; Hollow Rockers x 30; Plank- Knee to cross elbow touches x 10 each side then Pike; Side Plank holding weight- 30 sec. each side; Seated Compressions- Starting with hands at hips, hands by knees, hands past knees x 10 each then backwards until you reach hands by hips again. Great for the flexors! Repeat the entire routine a second time. 

Thursday: Campus Training again. This time I tried something called Max Ladders. 

Warmup: 20 minutes of traversing on the wall. Rest for 15 minutes

Warmup Boulder Ladder:  V0 x4, V1 x4, V2 x4, V3 x2, V4 x2 (trying to select different types of problems on different types of terrain for a good mix). Rest for 10-15 minutes. 

Campus Training: Four sets of matching ladders (2 on the large rungs, 2 on the medium rungs) in which you start matched, then lead with the same hand and match the other hand for a total of 4 rungs matching once again at the top. Alternate the leading hand each set. Next was four sets of basic ladders (2 on the large rungs, 2 on the medium rungs) in which you start matched and go up one rung per hand for 5 rungs and match at the top. 

Max Ladders: Medium rungs. Start matching on Rung #1, R hand up to Rung #5, L hand to Rung #7, match. Repeat leading with the left hand. Next, start matching on Rung #1, R hand up to Rung #5, L hand to Rung #9, match. Repeat with the left hand.  

Friday: Core! Using the bench- Knee Tucks x 20, V Ups x 20, Side V Ups x 10 each side; Heavy Rack Carry with kettlebells along the length of the shop down and back; 50 mountain climbers; 1 min. plank- 30 sec. hold, 30 sec activators from hands to elbows. Repeat the routine 3 times! 

That wraps up the 2nd of 3 weeks of power. 8 weeks of training total and getting closer and closer to tying it all together to see if I can send my first 13 at Smith Rock. I wanted to share a little bit about the gear that I've been using during the power training. For shoes, I've been really happy with the Atomyc from Red Chili. I've been using Unicorn Dust from Friction Labs during the bouldering and campus sessions. You can find these and a bunch of climbing gear at AntiGravity Equipment of course. 

Supplemental training: Cameron has incorporated kettlebells into the latest routines. I don't sell those at AntiGravity Equipment but he had me order a 35lb and 55lb kettlebell from Rogue Fitness if you're interest in which type we're using. He also brought in his own 70lb bell to share. 

Learning to rack the kettlebell properly for cleans and heavy carries. 

Learning to rack the kettlebell properly for cleans and heavy carries. 

The campus training and long bouldering sessions have been some of the most punishing on my elbows. I talked at length with a friend about the benefits of ice and heat for recovery and I put that to the test this week. After any hard climbing workout, I go home and fill up a container with ice and water and submerge each arm for 10 minutes. I found that it keeps me 100% pain free at least half a day before typical workout soreness sets in during the recovery. In addition to that I've been trying hot/cold cycles in the shower to help with overall recovery, circulation, and a reduction in inflammation from training. 

Next up is a trip to the dollar store for a bigger container so I can completely submerge my arm. 

Next up is a trip to the dollar store for a bigger container so I can completely submerge my arm. 

Check back on the shop's blog next week for the final power phase before moving to the pump-tastic power endurance phase! 

 

Juan Rodriguez