Week 7: Power
Finally... back to climbing! Even if it's in the gym, at least it's actual movement on problems instead of monotonous traversing or mindless hanging while the seconds tick by on the stop watch. After finishing up 2 weeks of Base Fitness and 4 weeks of Strength, I'm happy to be downstairs once again relearning to climb difficult sequences on plastic.
The power phase consists of some pretty long training days moving over various types of boulder problems focusing more on difficult moves than actually completing the problems. A new addition to the training regimen is the use of a campus board; something I've always avoided in the past for fear of finger injuries (same as the hangboard).
The first day of the first week of Power had me feeling out of sorts. It had been a month and a half since I walked downstairs from AntiGravity Equipment to Stoneworks to boulder. Prior to, I'd just been traversing moderate terrain for endurance or as a warmup to hangboarding but not much else. I expected to crush everything I touched and instead I found myself climbing somewhat awkwardly and falling off a lot of things. When it was time to use the campus board, I approached pretty timidly and even though I was able to complete the workout, I left feeling pretty humbled and with some very sore fingertips and elbows (from introducing a new exercise and not from tendonitis). Here is the week's workout.
Friday: Endurance for 20 minutes. Warm up boulder ladder- V0 x4, V1 x4, V2 x4, V3 x2, V4 x2 (trying to select different types of problems on different types of terrain for a good mix). Rest for 10-15 minutes. Hard Bouldering- Worked on a couple of boulder problems that felt like V5-V6 in the highball room.
Campus Training: All done on the large rungs. Four sets of matching ladders in which you start matched, then lead with the same hand and match the other hand for a total of 4 rungs matching once again at the top. Alternate the leading hand each set. Next was four sets of basic ladders in which you start matched and go up one rung per hand for 5 rungs and match at the top.
Saturday: Opposing exercises from Cam. Lateral Crawls down and back, Hover Crawls down and back for warmups. Weighted Cossack Squats x4 each side. Plyo-Pushups x5. Power Step-ups with weight x5. Chair Dips with weight x5. Deadlifts with kettle bell x5. Repeat for a total of 3 rounds.
Sunday: Rest Day!
Monday: Was supposed to be a hard bouldering day but I had some friends that wanted to practice some skills outside and another friend who wanted to break in all the new gear she purchased at AntiGravity Equipment. So, I took a personal day and we all went out to Smith Rock so they could practice their skills. Truth be told, I think my body was still in shock from the first day of bouldering coupled with Cameron's workout so I was glad for the extra rest day.
Tuesday: Core! From the hangboard- Hanging Knee Tucks x15; Inverted Negatives x5; Pass-throughs using parallettes x10; Russian Twist x60; V Ups x30; Superman hold for 1 min. Rinse and repeat with no rest between tucks and negatives on the second round. Pure Misery. I was able to get through the whole workout except for the second Superman, I just couldn't stomach it... see what I did there? ;)
Wednesday: Endurance for 20 minutes. Warm up boulder ladder- V0 x4, V1 x4, V2 x4, V3 x2, V4 x2 (trying to select different types of problems on different types of terrain for a good mix) This time I took longer rests between the harder problems in the ladder. Rest for 15 minutes. Hard Bouldering- I selected 1 hard boulder problem just above flash level to work on. I picked something steep with dynamic movements in it and sent it in 2 tries. Felt like a V5-6 maybe?
Campus Training: Four sets of matching ladders (2 on the large rungs, 2 on the medium rungs) in which you start matched, then lead with the same hand and match the other hand for a total of 4 rungs matching once again at the top. Alternate the leading hand each set. Next was four sets of basic ladders (2 on the large rungs, 2 on the medium rungs) in which you start matched and go up one rung per hand for 5 rungs and match at the top.
This time I felt a lot more in control. My approach had a lot less nervousness and I got a bit better at deadpointing but still managed to wreck my fingertips on the last few sets.
Thursday: Core! Plank- Elbows, hold for 1 minute; Activators from elbows to hands for 1 minute; Hands, hold for 1 minute. 15 second break between exercises. Repeat once more without the breaks. FML. Side Plank- Elbows, 1 minute each side. On hands, 30 secs each side; Active hip raises from hands 30 sec each side. 15 second break between exercises. Repeat once more without the breaks. FML. Finish with 1 Turkish Getup followed by 5 windmills and reverse the Getup, x5 on each side.
Supplemental training: I switched up to heavier lift workouts designed by my friend Cameron for this phase. He focused on fewer exercises comprised of compound movements with fewer reps and more weight. I also took care to ice my elbows and fingers after every workout because I definitely felt them speaking up after campus workouts.
Taking care of skin on my fingers has also been a priority. I've been getting some questions at AntiGravity Equipment about what all that entails. Mainly it's just filing down calluses and tiny flappers so they don't have a chance to develope into big painful tears that require tape or time off to heal. I even started stocking Skin Files and ClimbSkin from Friction Labs at the shop to keep me motivated to take care of the finger tips.
As always, feel free to ask any questions about the training on the shop's social media outlets or better yet, you can always drop by AntiGravity Equipment and see the training set ups that we use. Thanks for reading!